Yesterday I arrived in Guam. The tsunami scare two nights ago in Saipan was a new experience. All is good now. But as everyone knows it is a scary situation in Japan. I made many new friends in my 18 days there and I’m sick with fear for them. But looking back I’m not unhappy that I was able to make it out when I did. In Saipan we were ordered to the top floors of our hotel for 90 minutes while we sweated out the tsunami threat. Then things returned to normal.
My internet connection wasn’t the best so I wasn’t able to post any Saipan photos until now.

View from my hotel's open air lobby, Saipan. Hill 500 in the background.
Above, Hill 500 was named by the American soldiers because the hill is 500 feet high. Covered in clouds to the left of Hill 500 is Mt. Tagpochau which is 1200 feet high. Photos of and from these sites are below. When the American troops invaded the beaches from the west, with Gene Smith following, the Japanese were well fortified on the tops of both Hill 500 and Mt. Tagpochau, with guns that ranged to 1500 meters. What resulted, of course, wasn’t pretty. Today, though, Saipan is quite stunning. There are 50,000 residents, down 40% from a peak before their garment industry was healthy (before NAFTA and other trade agreements – Saipan is a U.S. territory).

View from top of Hill 500 looking back toward my hotel. Tinian is the island in the background.
Much of the warfare on this island took place in the space you are seeing in the photo above. The Japanese were well entrenched when American troops invaded the beaches from the west (the right side of the photograph above).
By the way, I’ve learned this history from an unusual and rich source in the form of Don Farrell, who grew up in Billings, Montana and has lived in the Northern Mariana Islands for 35 years, teaching school, working in the local government, and becoming the leading historian of the region. More on him later. He may end up being the focus of my next Paris Review piece. Don looks like a cross between a ZZ Top guitarist and Colonel Sanders. He likes to pop a few cold ones and he’s an experienced horticulturalist, if you know what I mean. He’s a dogged historian and natural storyteller. They don’t make ‘em like Don at the universities, although they should. He would fit in well at CDS.

Hill 500 looking in the other direction.

Mt. Tagpochau, 1200 ft. elevation. I was trying to imagine hiking up this mountain with people shooting at you in 90 degree, humid conditions.

View from top of Mt. Tagpochau looking down into "Death Valley."
It turns out my internet connection is slow here in Guam, too. The hotel is working on it. I’ll post more Saipan photos when I can upload them faster. My goal on this WWII battlefield portion of my journey has been to learn something that would allow me to write better about Gene Smith prowling around these areas with his camera during combat. I keep thinking of a boy from landlocked Kansas, by WWII in his early to mid-20s, lugging his equipment around these tropical islands for 18 months. I’m not sure, yet, how these impressions will make it into my book. But they will.
-Sam Stephenson